Fashion

Fighting Spirit

The Rani Zakhem Couture Fall Winter 2018-2019 collection is a vibrant and sparkling tribute to the combating and combative woman.

The camouflage spirit dominates the graphic scene of this Couture collection. This never-ending motif on military combat clothing, depending on whether they are fighting in urban areas, in deserts, forests or snowy planes, tells the tale of human fragility and highlights the need to blend into the environment to escape the enemy. Rani Zakhem redesigns it and transforms it into a manifesto, as an embossed sumptuous ornament embroidered in new tonalities: glittering emerald, bronze and gold on a pencil skirt; red, black and gold crystals in clusters on an incendiary sheath or on the sleeves of a black spencer jacket; or in a single element, gold, iridescent crystal and silver, wrapping the waist of a white silk crepe cocktail dress vertiginously slit on the bias. Elsewhere, we find the motif in an almost crude state, treated in a falsely literal way, as a serigraph in shades of khaki on a precious silk crepe sablé, for a tailleur composed of an ultra-feminine “V” neck Spencer with structured  shoulders, and sharp cigarette pants. The very idea of invisibility inherent to camouflage is here reinterpreted into hyper visibility.

Another recurring motif is the oversized military insignia, which adorn the sleeves of a jacket or coat as giant gold glittering embroidered chevrons. A large chunk of this collection, an explosion of white, a value rather than a color, considered fragile but luminous, bold, a symbol of renewal and resilience. The new Amazone stands out from the crowd and appears, strong and sensual, exposed but invulnerable, ready for all fights.

Subtle references from Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan and Azzedine Alaïa punctuate the couture vocabulary of Rani Zakhem, between a Saharienne detail, a draped moulage, the powerful minimalism of a white dress enhanced by a slight ornament, all brilliantly inserted in a personal interpretation.

ranizakhem.com

 

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